Makeup Shakeup

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Most eye makeup application is horizontal.  I’ve found a shortcut, and it requires vertical application.  Not only will this look work on every eye shape (since it doesn’t discriminate based on where your natural crease lies), but it can fulfill every look from The Work Appropriate to The Go-To Glam based on the contrast, intensity, and finish of the shadows used. For every day, cream shadow that melts into a soft brown will give polished definition, while a shimmery taupe blended with a deep, rich plum is perfect for a big event – especially when peeking from under wispy false lashes and paired with a sophisticated nude lip.

I made a video to demonstrate this technique using M.A.C. shadows in Folie, Honesty, and Dazzlelight.  Have fun playing around with different shadows and remember as long as you blend well, you can go from very pale to very dark.

Five-Product Challenge

Folks ask for my top five makeup products…but I rarely have an answer because I’ve been known to use around 20 different products (tools not included). For a challenge, I tried a makeup look (I actually liked) with only five makeup products.  It was fine, but since I couldn’t use anything to set my makeup, this look won’t last all day.  If you want to be a naughty rule-breaker and add powder and/or setting spray, this would be a perfect Minimalist or Work Appropriate.

Here’s the breakdown:

I applied tinted foundation with an SPF using my fingers and dabbed concealer around my eyes and nose, then blended cream blush onto my cheeks and lips.  Next, I used a dark brown eyeliner to my lash line and smudged, then used the same pencil to fill in my brows.  I really wanted my bronzer to contour, but I remembered a technique from this video (@ 5:50); so I used my liner instead.  I dotted a little liner down the sides of my nose and smudged using the same brush used on my eyes – then I used the residue on the brush to draw around my cheek bones and jawline.  Finally, I curled my lashes and added mascara.

 

Finding Your Guru

While YouTube is filled with excellent makeup advice, sometimes finding a go-to guru can take you through some rather…interesting…videos.  To hopefully make your journey easier, here are the artists I follow:

Wayne Goss (gossmakeupartist and gossmakeupchat)

Wayne is my favorite, and I’ll watch his cheeky videos several times a week.  He gives practical advice while demonstrating beautiful makeup looks for every age.

Lisa Eldridge (LisaEldridgeDotCom)

Even though I think she might have magical makeup powers, she will show you looks that you can absolutely recreate.  Full disclosure: sometimes I fall asleep watching her videos because her voice is so soothing.

Cara Brook (maskCARA)

Allure’s 2013 Beauty Blogger of the Year, Cara is a busy mom of two who shows you how to recreate celebrity looks.  Her blog also offers advice on everything from highlighting and contouring (aka HACing) to incredible hair tutorials, and she recently launched her own makeup line.

Teni Panosian (MissMaven)

Finally, Teni will give you the most gorgeous, romantic looks.  She’s also a hair genius.  She claims not to be a makeup artist, but her techniques are pretty advanced.

 

Five Looks - Smokey Eye/Nude Lip

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For the fourth of five makeup looks to master (you can see the others here, here and here), allow me to introduce The Smokey Eye/Nude Lip - this is my favorite look of all time.  It also tends to be the one brides ask for the most, but then feel it’s too much for their wedding day once they see it on.  If you want to emphasize your eyes, remember that you can do that with any color of shadow, not just dark colors. While there are endless variations of a smoky eye, this is the way I teach it: prep the eye lids with a little concealer and a very slight dusting of powder or skin-colored shadow.  Pick three complementary colors in light, medium, and dark shades: dark brown, medium brown, and light brown…or plum, light brown, and gold…whatever.  Take an eyeliner the same color as your darkest shadow, line your top lashes, then smudge with your finger and apply the darkest color directly on top of the liner – not the entire lid.  Swipe the medium shade right in your crease, and the lightest shade over the medium color up to your brow bone.  Add another layer of liner close to the lashes, then apply mascara.  Clean up any “fallout” from the shadow underneath your eyes, and finish your makeup, ending with a natural lip.  It sounds like a lot of work, but I promise once you get the hang of it and know right were to put everything, it will go quickly.  You can see a demo here.

 

Five Looks - The Minimalist

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A good wardrobe has a few versatile, basic pieces: an LBD, a structured blazer, a crisp oxford.  These staples are the basics for several different scenarios, from the office to a wedding guest.  Your makeup wardrobe follows the same arrangement; foundation, concealer, mascara, and lipstick are the building blocks for endless “outfits.”  With that in mind, here is the first of five makeup looks that, once they become second nature, will give you a solid repertoire for any situation. I feel that too often we’re shown images that have been over-doctored, so all of the photos for these looks were taken in natural light with an iPhone - no fancy lighting, filters or lenses - so you get a great idea of how the makeup will turn out.

The first look, The Minimalist, is a quick go-to for weekends or running errands.  It's a simple routine that will enhance features enough to show that you didn’t just roll out of bed.  I apply a tinted foundation, a little gel eyeliner, fill in my brows, add a touch of concealer around my nose and eyes, mascara, and a little lip gloss or lip balm.